80 degrees North – Svalbard and the Arctic

In early May 2024 , I spent eight days on an expedition around Svalbard and the Arctic. As one of the first ships of the season, the MS Stockholm ventured the western route around Svalbard and the Arctic. Such an early voyage to the Arctic Ocean is not without risk. Every day, the question arose anew whether the planned route was mostly ice-free and therefore navigable. The situation can change completely within a single day. Where there was an ice-free passage yesterday, wind and currents can drive the pack ice so dense and thick that even the MS Stockholm cannot pass through the next day. The Swedish crew, led by Captain Magnus, is incredibly experienced and did everything possible to ensure we completed the planned route. The MS Stockholm was the first ship to pass through the infamous Forlandsundet, a shortcut between the mainland of Svalbard and the offshore island of Forland, feared for its strong currents.

MS Stockholm

The MS Stockholm is a venerable, classic ship, originally built in 1953 for the Swedish Maritime Administration. Completely refitted in 1998, she embarked on a new voyage as a polar expedition vessel. With her beautiful brass details and wooden decks, the MS Stockholm is an impressive piece of maritime history, simply unique in her charm and elegance. For 25 years, she has navigated the challenging waters of Svalbard, proving her ability to reach remote locations inaccessible to larger ships.

After landing in Longyearbyen, the only settlement on Svalbard, we went straight on board. Following cabin assignments and a quick stow of our luggage, we were called to the comfortable lounge. Over a welcome drink, all eight participants received a comprehensive briefing on life and conduct on board, as well as the planned Zodiac excursions and landings. Wetsuits and life jackets were assembled and individually fitted for each person. A large part of the briefing naturally focused on understanding this unique, fragile ecosystem and the challenges facing Arctic wildlife.

The MS Stockholm is a member of AECO, the Association of Arctic Expeditions Cruise Operators. This organization ensures sustainable and environmentally friendly tourism in the regions visited. It is particularly committed to conducting expeditions with the utmost respect for nature and wildlife.

The polar bear (Hours and hours with binoculars)

A major goal of every Arctic expedition is, of course, spotting a polar bear. Finding one in the seemingly endless expanse of the pack ice is as difficult as looking for a needle in a haystack. All eight participants stood for hours on end with binoculars at the railing, scanning the pack ice and the ice edges of the mainland. The guides and some of the crew did the same on the bridge. At -8 degrees Celsius and sometimes strong winds, it was usually only bearable for an hour or so. But there was always hot coffee, tea, and chocolate in the cozy lounge. You could warm up and revive your stiff fingers.

We had four polar bear sightings during the entire expedition, three of them close enough to take fantastic photos. Not a single polar bear was spotted by the tour participants. It was incredible how knowledgeable and persistent our guides were! Even visible through binoculars as tiny yellowish dots, every one of their "polar bear alerts" was spot on.

When a sighting was deemed suitable for a Zodiac excursion, we were told to be ready in 15 minutes. We quickly changed into warm clothes, then wetsuits, life jackets, waterproofed all our camera gear, and off we went! We saw the polar bear moving north along the edge of the ice and positioned our Zodiac about a kilometer in front of it. Now came the tense waiting – would it come towards us or head inland? It came! At first visible only as a small bear in the distance, it came directly towards us. It was incredibly difficult to restrain ourselves and not immediately start snapping photos at the first sight. Attentive yet seemingly unfazed, it eyed us every now and then, passed by, and disappeared around the next mountain ridge as silently as it had appeared. Wow, what a goosebump moment! Even on the Zodiac, it was quiet; we were all deeply moved and simply looked at each other in awe. What an encounter with the king of the Arctic!

Our second encounter was also quite a spectacle. We had anchored for the night in a quiet bay at the edge of the ice and were enjoying a nightcap in the lounge at 10:30 p.m. Some had already retired to their cabins to sleep. We heard a loud crash on the bridge stairs. Christian, our excellent guide, had spotted a polar bear. (Note: At 80 degrees north latitude, the sun doesn't set even at the beginning of May; it doesn't even touch the horizon, meaning there's only a slight twilight.) Once again, it was time to put on everything—from long underwear to hats and gloves—grab our cameras, and head out.

In the far distance, a polar bear made its way along a mighty glacier. Could it be heading in our direction? We watched it for a long time; it grew smaller and smaller and disappeared behind a mountain ridge, much too far away—what a shame. Christian, however, thought there was a chance the polar bear might cross the ridge into the next bay, and we might catch it there the following morning. The plans were changed, the anchor was raised, and we sailed to the next bay while we went to sleep in our bunks. 2:30 a.m., more loud banging and hammering on the cabin door. Christian was right—it had come! From pajamas to full polar gear as quickly as possible. And how it came! On extremely photogenic, beautifully textured pack ice, it came directly toward the MS Stockholm and approached us safely to within about 250 meters.

Magnificent, overwhelming… yet another such close encounter, almost eye to eye. An experience I will never forget.

Walruses and seals

Walruses and seals are much easier to spot. Since they usually stay in groups on the pack ice or ice floes, they can be seen relatively easily with binoculars as dark patches. Harbor seals and bearded seals are found in smaller groups, while walruses often gather in large herds, especially during the mating season.

The sight of the harbor seals and bearded seals, with their large eyes and innocent expressions, captivated everyone. The sighting of the walruses also sparked enthusiasm, though most didn't find them particularly beautiful or photogenic. I disagree: While they may not be paragons of beauty, I was fascinated by these primeval powerhouses, which can weigh up to 1200 kg. Despite their immense size, their sensitive whiskers and small eyes give them a gentle expression. Peaceful creatures.

Seabirds and the minke whale

At this early stage, the feathered guests from the south have not yet arrived, and the seabirds of the North Atlantic, such as puffins, have not yet begun their breeding season and still live far away on the open, ice-free sea.

Glaucous gulls and fulmars are constant companions when the ship is underway. It is a joy to watch these graceful and skillful fliers.

Eider ducks, black guillemots, and murres are among the permanent inhabitants of the Arctic Ocean and have already begun their courtship rituals. This can sometimes be heard quite loudly.

A minke whale also briefly appeared in a bay… I only managed to snap a photo of its distinctive fin in those five seconds before it disappeared again. A fantastic encounter nonetheless.

I hope my travelogue and photos have entertained you and given you a glimpse into this fascinating Arctic world. I admire the courage and tenacity of the animals and how they survive in this challenging habitat.

Thank you for your attention.

Warmly – Irene