The coastal bears of Katmai

The starting point for the second destination of my Alaska trip was Kodiak Island, the second largest island in the USA, located in southwest Alaska. Fjords, mountains, bays, beaches, and greenery as far as the eye can see. Its beautiful and rugged nature has earned the island the name "Emerald Isle"—the green island .

Kodiak Island

This is where the expedition to see the coastal bears of Katmai National Park began, by boat. The Katmai coast... an untouched coastline, far removed from any civilization, accessible only by boat or seaplane. After their winter hibernation in the mountains, the bears descend to the coast and feed on shellfish, grass, roots, and occasionally fish. They eagerly await the end of the short summer, when the salmon, after their long journey across the sea, return to their birthplace, swimming upriver to reach their spawning grounds.

July and August in Alaska (unlike in Europe) were very wet and rainy. As a result, the rivers were running high, making it easier for the salmon to reach their spawning grounds. Therefore, they arrived relatively early this season, much to the delight of the bears. The bears employ various techniques to hunt salmon and are very efficient at it. Almost one in three attacks is successful, though it is also a strenuous effort. It was already evident that the bears had enjoyed a good season. They were very well-fed and thus well-prepared for hibernation.

What does a bear do when he's stuffed himself? Take a siesta, of course, and let the sun shine on his belly or other precious areas 😜.

Upon reaching the bend in the river one morning, we surprised seven bears fishing. What a spectacular sight!

I've been asked a few times how close we got to the bears. Very close, to within two meters. But the bears chose this proximity themselves – they were the ones who approached us. We always approached at a respectful distance, giving the animals the necessary space. This way, they didn't feel disturbed and could always retreat if they wanted. We only approached mother bears with cubs to within 200 meters. They are particularly sensitive, and we absolutely didn't want to make them nervous or intimidate them in any way. There was a reason I was lugging around that heavy telephoto lens, after all 😉. There were never any tense situations; I had complete trust in David. He knows the bays, the bear trails, and can interpret and assess the bears' behavior. He was always alert and attentive behind us. For those interested, I highly recommend David's documentary, " The Bear Within Me ."

The main protagonists of my Alaska trip were the coastal bears. However, to my delight, I also had numerous other encounters with Alaska's wildlife. The bear is the boss in Alaska, the moose the king of the tundra. Calm and majestic, it roams its territory. Its size and palmate antlers are impressive. Even if it appears calm and composed, the necessary safety distance should absolutely be maintained. A bull moose can easily weigh 600 kg.

The majesty of the skies is the bald eagle, the national bird of the USA. A cunning bird of prey. It usually sits for hours, high up and well hidden in the trees along the rivers, scanning for prey. Only its white head feathers give it away. I still managed to spot one 😀. It takes four years for the bald eagle to develop its characteristic plumage with its white head and tail. Juvenile birds resemble our white-tailed eagles.

The sea otter was the epitome of relaxation, floating peacefully in the water and enjoying the evening sun; I nicknamed him "Ottie." I also spotted a small, curious beauty bathing: a grey dipper. It's the only dipper species native to North America.

For eight days we traveled in waders, along ancient bear trails and through rivers, in beautiful weather and torrential rain. We spent our nights on our ship, the Island C, where a wonderful crew looked after us and welcomed us with warming soup on wet days. It's difficult to put our experiences and encounters with the bears into words without using countless superlatives. It was magical and deeply moved me.

Seward and the Kenai Fjords

The last stop on my trip was Seward, 130 miles south of Anchorage on Resurrection Bay. Framed by rugged mountains, surrounded by deep fjords and mighty glaciers calving into the sea. Despite Alaska's unpredictable climate, I'd had such great weather luck during the first three weeks; it was bound to change eventually. Terrible, miserable weather... rain, foggy, gray, and overcast—no chance to truly experience this magnificent landscape or take any decent photos—unfortunately. Only one afternoon, during a hike, did the skies briefly clear.

There was certainly some disappointment, but as I sat by the fireplace in my cozy B&B, selected the first photos and reviewed what I had experienced so far… pure bliss!

Once again, the words of my favorite poet, John Muir, came to mind: "On every walk in nature, one receives much more than one sought ." I was, and still am, so grateful for the many encounters with bears in their pristine habitat and these vast landscapes of the Arctic tundra.

Alaska – the last frontier ❤️.

I hope my travelogue and photos have entertained you, given you a glimpse into the beauty of Alaska, and perhaps even inspired you to read more books or watch more films. You can find more photos of Alaska and the bears under the relevant tabs on the website. I'll close with a "goodbye bear" and a snapshot from the field.

Warmly – Irene